Friday, September 15, 2006

What´s Black and Blue and Scraped all over?

Lizzy!
 
So on this, our 68th day, we celebrate Guatemalan Independence Day.  Festivities seemed to have begun full fledged yesterday as people from all around began coming into this small town of Lanquin for celebrations.  Firecrackers (more than normal, which is already lots!), whistles, chants, drumming and other music -- it seems to be a festive affair.  But the day is still young, and expectations are still high.
 
In the last week, we have traveled quite a bit staying no more than two nights in any given place.  It began with crossing just over the border into Honduras to see the Mayan ruins at Copan.  They are supposed to be some of the more pristine ruins, very well maintained and home to the "hieroglyphic stairway", which archaeological linguistics have discovered as telling the history of this sophisticated society.  It is also the longest known consecutive hieroglyphic script.  It was the first of many ruins we will encounter.
 
We then headed back into Guatemala and on to Rio Dulce, a riverside town on the Caribbean side of the country about 50 miles inland.  We stayed at Bruno´s and quickly learned this particular area is one of the safest harbors in the Caribbean, evidenced by the probably hundreds of not-so-small sailboats and yachts docked to wait out hurricane season.  (It was also a pleasant reminder that we are still in hurricane season and NEVER know what the weather is going to be.)  We got there just in time to see a beautiful sunset from the top of the longest bridge in Guatemala.  We woke up the next day and walked to a castle once used by Spanish conquistadors as a holding (torture) cell during the Spanish inquisition.  Destroyed by earthquakes of the past, it was reconstructed in the 1950s and now a tourist site and the surrounding park a popular swimming destination for locals, mostly because it is HOT there.

From there, we zig-zagged (after missing a bus) back west and stopped for the night at a national park, Biotopo del Quetzal.  The cool mountains were a welcome after the coastal heat.  While there, thanks to the keen eye of the hotel owner´s daughter, we actually saw a Quetzal, the Guatemalan national bird.  It is a brilliant green, with a mix of teal, and known for its extremely long tail.  The Guatemalan currency is named after it.
 
While there, we started our ongoing game of Rummy (or maybe Gin or Gin Rummy...anyone know the difference).  A few more rounds since and the score stands for now at...
 
Lizard = 1995
Bob = 2190
 
We woke up early the next day to finish our trek through Coban to Lanquin, where we have been for the past two days.  Luckily, there was dorm space available in El Retiro, a highly recommended hostel in town.  The first afternoon, we walked to the Lanquin caves for some amature spelunking (the kind with electrical lighting and stairways throughout).  We took a nice tube ride down the emerald green river to get back to El Retiro in time for the evening´s festivities: an international game of Monopoly (where Campbanetti enterprises represented US capitalism well), an insane buffet feast for dinner (which is apparently a bi-weekly affair which we might just have to stick around for again!), and a little drinking and dancing to heal the Monopoly wounds (you know, the usual "foreign policy" of smoothing over of Capitalist effects).
 
Yesterday was perhaps our most spectacular day so far on our trip, certainly adding to the list of things you will not find anywhere else in the world.  We visited the pools and caves of Semuc Champey.  We still felt a little tired after a night of monopoly and dancing, but quickly woke up after a 30 minute winding ride through the mountains in the back of a pick-up truck.  The pictures we took couldn't´t possibly capture the beauty of the mountains; it was breath-taking!
 
We arrived at the entrance of the park and split into two groups.  Our group was a melting pot of nationalities and made for an entertaining day.  We started with a 45 minute hike up an incredibly steep hill (love our keens!)to the ¨mirador¨, which was a look-out point above the pools of Semuc Champey.  Millions of years ago the river cut through the mountains of limestone to create pockets of pools.  However, the pools are not supplied by the water of the river, but by the water that runs off of the mountains.  The river now circumvents its original path as it cuts through the mountain from a different route.  This phenomena has created one of the most beautiful attractions in Guatemala.   
 
After sufficiently capturing photos of the amazing view, we hiked another 30 minutes to the pools.  Our guide and adventurous group didn´t waste any time and quickly dove into the first pool.  This led to a 40 minute session of "pool hopping", where our guide brought us from one pool to the next.  The depth of the pools varied greatly and we were able to dive into the middle and swim to the nearest embankment.  From there we would climb out of the water onto the slippery limestone to the next pool.  So incredibly fun. 
 
After a super-healthy lunch of chips, peanut butter and crackers, we headed to the caves for an experience unlike anywhere else in the world -- probably because it would never be deemed safe enough anywhere else in the world!  It took almost two hours going in and out.  We each carried our own candle and walked, waded and swam through the water filled caves, all while trying to keep our only light source alive and well.  There were ladders precariously tied to stalactites, that often led us through extremely narrow passages just (barely) enough for us to squeeze through.  There was even one small pool we came to that couldn´t have been more than 15 feet in diameter where we voluntarily climbed 10 feet or so up the side of the cave and jumped in.  (Let me repeat, the only light source was 12 candles, some of which would go out from the splashing canon balls!)  It was exhilarating and terrifying at the same time (as you can imagine has been a trend with our experiences).  Are we glad we did it?  Absolutely.  Will we do it again?  Hell no!
 
We finished with the caves around 4:00 pm, but we couldn't leave without one more adventure. A few people from our group, including Robert, found themselves standing on top of the bridge.  They jumped into the rushing river forty feet below them!  Unfortunately, the camera was running low on battery power, so "Bob" had to jump in twice.  The second attempt left him with a sore bum, but an excellent picture!
 
Bruised, scraped, exhausted, and happy, we rode back to the hostel to enjoy dinner with our international crew.
 
What can we do in Mexico......

Friday, September 08, 2006

A Wise Person Once Said...

After you are done packing for a trip like this, go back through all of your stuff and take away at least half. (thanks Letitia)

Well, 100 bucks and a donation later we learned our lesson...

Purging in Antigua
Sep 8, 2006 - 4 Photos

Everything on the left was in the "valuable" category of things that were shipped home (everyone please cross your fingers on that one. Mom and Dad, be on the lookout for its arrival in Mobile, supposedly in 10-15 days. And feel free to open it up and wash the dirty clothes!).

And those on the right were donated to a local hospital and social service organization (Marge, remember those few shirts I borrowed...Guatemalan children are better off for my having borrowed them!).

So, 25 pounds lighter and now being able to fit everything into our big packs and not be burdened with the heavy day packs on our front, we are ready to start travelling. We're now just waiting for our choloroquin to kick in and make us malaria-proof before leaving the safe areas of the highlands.

Once we leave Antigua tomorrow morning at 4am (ouch), we will be on a whirlwind 3 1/2 tour of Guatemala, a little Honduras and, time permitting, the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico before meeting Margaret in Belize City for a little scuba diving (snorkeling?), replenishing our book supply, and other familial activities -- wine drinking, sarcastic banter, the usual...

Plenty of stories to come...

Volcan Pacaya

On Wednesday, September 6, we set off to hike Volcano Pacaya, one of Guatemala's three active volcanoes. It came highly recommended by every traveler who has been through this area, mainly because it has been particularly active in the last month. Pictures we'd seen before hand were incredible -- National Geographic quality stuff with red lava spewing and flowing all within feet of the photographers. Like this one from Tom...

Tom's Pacaya Pic
Sep 8, 2006 - 1 Photo

The hike itself, only about two hours, was cake after hiking Santa Maria. The final ascent, however, was quite different. The final 45 minutes was incredibly steep and all black ash -- it was like hiking a sand mountain where every step was slippery and tough. No need for our buns of steel workout the next day, that's for sure.

Unfortunately, September 6th wasn't a day of glowing red excitement. We did get to see a little through the cracks of last week's lava flow. But we also learned quickly that just because the rocks are black or grey does not mean they are cold! Even walking close to the lava flows, you could feel the heat radiating.

It was fascinating to see the effects of an active volcano. The lava flows protrude from the top like little tentacles, slowly (sometimes) moving down into the grassy, lush areas below. The tentacles we saw and climbed on were very neat. They didn't burn up everything around. The grass is still green right until the dried lava. The juxtaposition between the force and heat of a lava river and the lush greenery next to it almost seemed respectful. Granted, pictures in the visitors center of previously destructive eruptions show that the level of "respect" varies greatly. Lucky for us, it was a day of respect.

I don't really feel like getting into the fact that our guide seemed to risk losing his license (in his words) for taking us beyond the designated observation point. I think that because there was no lava, he thought we would be disappointed. To ensure that was not the case, he proceeded to lead us to the VERY TOP where the two main craters were spitting loads of sulfurous gas that had our entire group coughing and covering our mouths before hurrying back down (the hurrying was actually quite fun in the ash as you were almost skiing the entire way down...AND, Liz and I chose to ignore trails and head straight down the 45 degree slope, resulting in only minor injuries).

To get the closest view, the guides would literally hold onto people as they leaned in attempting to peer into the craters in search of lava. It was one of those times that you begin to question the benefit vs. risk of such an "extreme" sort of outing. Maybe that's just us getting old and losing our "edge", but the idea of falling into a crater of lava...well, I'll take old over a fiery death any day!

Volcan Pacaya
Sep 6, 2006 - 127 Photos

Antigua

We arrived in Antigua on Monday, September 4 and stayed long enough for our malaria medicine to kick in before moving on.

Antigua is a beautiful, old colonial town with a fair share of churches and architecture from its days of Spanish rule. It served as the colonial capital of Guatemala before the earthquake of 1773 destroyed virtually the entire city, after which the capital was transferred to Gautemala City. The wide cobblestone streets and beautiful Parque Central give the city unmatched character. It's easily the most attractive city we have visited thusfar. The architecture has remained largely the same over the centuries, though it is still hard to imagine these same streets, now filled with internet cafes, travel agencies, and upscale restaurants, were once ruled by blacksmiths, horses and buggies, and Spanish conquistadors.

Antigua, Guatemala
Sep 8, 2006 - 11 Photos